GSIKE: Build a 12V LiFePO4 Off-Grid and Home-Storage Bank with 300Ah

GSIKE 12.8V 300Ah-class · 314Ah cells = 4019.2Wh (~3840Wh nameplate) · 100A continuous charge & discharge · 1280W DC ceiling · 400A/1s pulse · 100A BMS · charge 14.4V ±0.2V at 40A · 4P4S = 16 units = 64.3kWh · M8 terminals · IP65 · price EUR 369.99

Short answer: the GSIKE 300Ah is a 12.8V DC energy store, not an appliance in a box. You build a bank around it by pairing it with three separate external devices: a solar charge controller between your panels and the battery, a charger set to the 14.4V lithium profile, and (when you want household sockets) a separate 12V inverter. The battery itself delivers no alternating current and runs no sockets directly. Each box is capped at 100A, which is 1280W of continuous DC; wire identical boxes in parallel to raise the current, and in series only when your whole system is rated for the higher voltage. Done correctly, sixteen identical boxes wired 4P4S become a 51.2V / 1256Ah bank of 64.3kWh. This guide works through sizing, charging, the BMS, cabling and expansion for off-grid and home storage across Europe.

The five build facts to lock in first

Before you buy boxes or run a single cable, these five numbers define the whole bank.

1. Each box stores 4019.2Wh from 314Ah engineering cells (about 3840Wh at the 300Ah nameplate) at a nominal 12.8V. Count boxes to reach the stored energy you need.

2. Each box draws and accepts 100A continuous — 12.8V × 100A = 1280W of continuous DC, in or out. Add boxes in parallel to raise that ceiling.

3. The charge setting is 14.4V ±0.2V on a CC/CV curve, with a recommended 40A for everyday charging. The battery cuts itself off at 10V when discharged.

4. The BMS protects the box against over-charge, over-discharge, over-current, over-temperature and short circuits, and tolerates a 400A pulse for one second for motor starts.

5. Maximum expansion is 4P4S — sixteen boxes — reaching 51.2V and 1256Ah, which is 64.3kWh when multiplied out.

What the 1280W DC ceiling actually means

A common mistake is reading the 4kWh capacity and assuming the battery can pour 2000W into a heater. It cannot, out of a single box. The 100A BMS limits continuous discharge to 100A, and at 12.8V that is 1280W . The same 100A limit applies to charging.

This is a DC limit on energy flow, not an alternating-current rating. The battery produces low-voltage direct current only — there are no mains sockets on it and it does not make 230V. If your load is a 60W fridge, the ceiling is irrelevant. If you want to run a 1500W appliance, one box will trip its BMS; two identical boxes in parallel double the current budget to roughly 2.6kW, and four in parallel reach roughly 5.1kW. (Some marketing graphics label a higher figure; design on the conservative 100A / 1280W until the exact BMS rating is confirmed with the seller.)

Runtime on the 3840Wh nameplate (ideal DC)

Derate roughly 10–15% if the load runs through an inverter. The 400A one-second pulse covers brief motor kicks — a compressor fridge or a pump start — without tripping the BMS; only sustained draws count against the 1280W figure.

Solar charging: a separate controller, not something inside the battery

The GSIKE 300Ah has no built-in solar regulator. Solar panels produce a varying, higher voltage that the battery cannot accept directly, so you must place an external solar charge controller between the panels and the battery . That controller converts the panel output into a clean, battery-safe current and is set to a LiFePO4 absorption voltage of 14.4V.

The battery itself follows a CC/CV (constant-current then constant-voltage) charge curve : at low state of charge it accepts current steadily, then tapers as it approaches the 14.4V ±0.2V limit. The recommended everyday charge current is 40A ; the BMS will accept up to its 100A charge limit when a suitable charger supplies it. A 40A lithium charger refills a flat 4019Wh pack in roughly the time that energy divided by your charge current implies — about ten hours at 40A in round terms, faster on a brighter solar day.

Practical charging notes:

• Match the controller to the chemistry. Set the controller's battery type to LiFePO4 / lithium with a 14.4V absorption. A lead-acid profile that floats at 13.8V will under-charge the pack and leave it perpetually half full.

• Respect the temperature window. The battery charges between 0°C and 50°C and discharges down to −20°C. It will not charge below freezing, so a winter cabin either keeps the battery above freezing or relies on solar and discharge without charging on the coldest days.

• Size panels to refill your daily use. If you draw 400Wh a day, aim for panels that can harvest that plus losses on an average sun day; the battery holds the buffer, the panels refill it. Self-discharge is under 3% a month, so a charged bank sits happily over winter.

The BMS: what protects your bank

Every GSIKE 300Ah carries a 100A battery management system on board. Its job is to keep each cell within safe limits, and it cuts the battery off rather than let a fault propagate. The protections cover over-charge, over-discharge, over-current, over-temperature and short circuits. When discharged, the BMS disconnects at around 10V to stop the cells being pulled too low.

Two consequences for your build. First, the BMS is the reason the 1280W ceiling exists — if your load demands more, the BMS limits it, so size your loads or add parallel boxes rather than fighting the limit. Second, because the BMS is module-supplied, match identical units when you parallel or series them: same model, and units bought within roughly a month of each other so their cell voltages and states of charge are close. Mixing old and new, or different models, is the most common avoidable mistake in a multi-box bank.

Series vs parallel: how to actually wire the bank

Two wiring rules do all the work. Parallel (positive to positive, negative to negative) keeps the voltage at 12.8V and adds the amp-hours — it raises both stored energy and the current ceiling together. Series (positive of one to negative of the next) adds voltage and keeps the amp-hours the same — only do this when your inverter and charger are rated for the higher voltage.

The top build is the flagship expansion: 4P4S means sixteen units . Four in series bring the voltage from 12.8V to 51.2V, and four of those strings in parallel bring the capacity to 1256Ah. Multiply them out: 51.2V × 1256Ah = 64,307Wh, or 64.3kWh . That is a genuine off-grid home-scale store. Do not confuse it with smaller-battery figures; on this 300Ah platform sixteen boxes, not fewer, is what reaches 64.3kWh.

For the typical RV, cabin or small home build, you will almost never need the 51.2V series tier. Staying at 12.8V and adding parallel boxes keeps everything on a familiar 12V bus — 2P for a weekend cabin, 4P for a heavier home setup — and only an installer designing a true 64kWh house bank would step up to series.

M8 terminals, cable lugs and fuses

The boxes have M8 bolt terminals . Strip the cable, crimp a proper copper ring lug sized for the M8 bolt, slide it onto the post, and torque the nut down with a washer. Use cable heavy enough for the current: at 100A continuous, short runs want a substantial cable (around 25–35mm² for a 12V feed), and longer runs should be upsized further to limit voltage drop. Undersized cable heats up and wastes energy.

Fit a DC fuse or circuit breaker close to the positive terminal of the battery bank — it is the device that disconnects the fault, not the BMS alone. Keep all runs as short and direct as possible, route red and black away from each other where they could chafe, and mount the boxes on a fixed tray: at 26 kg net each, a multi-box bank is heavy and needs solid fixing rather than sitting loose on a shelf.

Pairing with a 12V inverter: the battery is DC, the inverter is separate

If you want to run household AC sockets — a laptop charger, a small kitchen appliance, lights on a normal plug — you need an inverter. It is a separate device that converts the battery's 12.8V direct current into the alternating current your plugs expect. The GSIKE battery itself contains no inverter and outputs no AC.

As a matched companion you can pair this bank with the GSK-2KW-12V-WIFI, a 12V-class inverter treated here as a black-box partner: connect its 12V DC input to the battery bank through the fuse, and it provides the AC side. Its own ratings and socket outputs belong to that inverter, not to the battery, and should be read from the inverter's own manual. The number that constrains the pairing is the battery's 1280W per-box DC ceiling: a single box will not sustainably feed a larger inverter's full load, so match the inverter's continuous draw to your parallel-box count.

Sizing your build: worked examples

Three builds translate the rules into a bill of boxes.

Build 1 — off-grid cabin, ~400Wh/day, 3 days autonomy. Stored energy needed ≈ 1200Wh. Add a 40A charger or sized solar controller. Simplest, lightest build.

Build 2 — weekend motorhome, ~1000Wh/day, 2–3 days. One 300Ah gives ~3.8 days at 1000Wh/day and handles a 60W fridge with margin. If you also want to run a small AC appliance through an inverter while on shore power is absent, plan the parallel count against that appliance's draw rather than buying a second box you do not need.

Build 3 — home storage / small off-grid house, ~3–5kWh/day. Move to 4P (four boxes, ~16kWh, ~5.1kW ceiling) for real daily cycling with cloudy-day buffer, paired with solar and a 12V inverter companion. Only a full house-scale design steps up to the 4P4S, sixteen-box, 64.3kWh, 51.2V bank — and that is a job for a qualified installer. The battery carries a 3-year warranty with a design life around 10 years, and is rated for 6000 cycles at 80% depth of discharge, so a properly built bank is a decade-plus asset.

Final verdict — build around the box, not into it

The GSIKE 12.8V 300Ah is a rugged, 26kg, IP65-sealed 4kWh DC store: 4019.2Wh, a 100A BMS, 1280W continuous, 14.4V/40A charging, M8 terminals and room to expand to 64.3kWh across sixteen boxes. Build the rest of the system as external, matched parts — a solar charge controller, a 14.4V lithium charger, fused M8 cabling, and a separate 12V inverter when you need AC. Respect the 1280W per-box ceiling, parallel identical units for more current, and keep the whole bank at 12.8V unless a qualified installer designs the 51.2V series tier.

The Bottom Line — the battery stores DC; everything that makes it useful is a separate box

Avoid the trap of treating the 4kWh battery as a complete power station. It stores 4019.2Wh of 12.8V DC and will deliver it at up to 1280W per box through a 100A BMS. The solar controller, the 14.4V/40A charger, the fuses and cables, and the 12V inverter are all external partners you select and wire around it — matched, fused, and expanded in parallel for more current, in series only up to the 51.2V / 64.3kWh ceiling when the whole system is built for it.

Frequently asked questions

The GSIKE 12.8V 300Ah LiFePO4 battery stores 4019.2Wh of deep-cycle energy in a 26kg IP65 ABS case — 314Ah engineering cells (a ~3840Wh "300Ah" nameplate), a 100A BMS capped at 1280W continuous, 6000 cycles at 80% depth of discharge, a 14.4V CC/CV charge profile and expansion to a 16-unit / 64.3kWh bank, sold across Europe at €369.99 struck from a real €470.00 regular price (21% off, Save €100.01), with free delivery and a 30-day return.

4019.2 Wh 314 Ah (300Ah class) 100A BMS 1280W ceiling 6000 cycles 400A pulse / 1s 14.4V CC/CV IP65 M8 terminals up to 64.3 kWh bank

Same GSIKE line, three SKUs. This page sells the 12.8V 300Ah ; the table below helps you compare it against the smaller 12.8V 100Ah sibling and the 25.6V 100Ah (8S) variant. Energy numbers use the engineering-cell figures; the 300Ah gives ~3.1× the run-time of the 100Ah at the same 1280W ceiling.

Because LiFePO4 safely delivers close to its full capacity while flooded lead-acid is limited to about 42% depth of discharge, one GSIKE 300Ah replaces roughly six 12V 100Ah lead-acid batteries wired IN PARALLEL on the same 12V bus . Never wire them in series to make 24V — that is a different system.

Keep every continuous load at or below the 1280W ceiling ; if you pull the full 1280W, the bank lasts ~3.0–3.14h. When running through a separate 12V inverter, derate by about 90–95% efficiency and leave depth-of-discharge headroom.

The battery supports parallel and series building. 4P4S = four in parallel × four in series: 16 units total = 64.3 kWh . 4S raises the voltage to 51.2 V ; 4P raises the capacity to 1256 Ah (51.2 V × 1256 Ah = 64,307 Wh).

On a bench shelf it runs the fridge, water pump, heater and chargers for several days off-grid — exactly what multi-day travellers want.

A remote cabin relies on it for warm light and phone power after the panels stop generating at dusk, across several cloudy days.

The steady 100A discharge gives a trolling motor smooth thrust without sag — buyers report a full day of fishing on one charge.

On a workbench it charges from the 14.4V source and supplies bench lighting, pumps and chargers — the 10V cut-off protects the cells.

These are the eight accurate official images (main unit first). Five marketing infographics are deliberately excluded: two overstate the BMS and appliance power, one overstates cycle count, one overstates the pulse current and one prints a different dimension. None of the excluded figures are used on this page.

Verbatim buyer reviews as submitted. This listing has no buyer photographs, so none are shown — the words are left to speak for themselves. The distribution is 16 five-star and 2 four-star reviews (Luc Peeters and Robert Martin), averaging 4.889, rounded to 4.9.

We installed this 300Ah battery in our campervan and it has completely changed how we travel, because we can now run the fridge, the water pump, the heater and all our electronics for several days without any need to hook up to shore power, and knowing that the cells are rated for more than six thousand cycles at full depth of discharge gives us real confidence that it will keep serving us for a very long time.

We previously ran a 100Ah lead-acid battery and the difference this 300Ah lithium unit has made is enormous, because we no longer have to ration our power or plan our trips around charging stops, and even though it is a bigger battery it is still lighter and smaller than the old lead-acid bank while holding far more usable energy, which honestly feels like a huge win.

We use this battery as the main storage for our home solar system and it has performed flawlessly since day one, storing the energy from our panels during the day and powering the house through the evening and overnight, and the intelligent Easun BMS keeps everything balanced and protected so we can rely on it completely without any maintenance at all.

We live in an area where storms often knock out the power for hours, and this battery has carried us through every single outage without any problems, because the 100A continuous discharge current means it can power quite demanding appliances and the surge capability handles the start-up current of the fridge without any trouble, and the IP65 waterproof rating means it can live happily in our utility room.

We live off-grid for several weeks at a time and this battery has become the heart of our power system, because it charges quickly from our solar panels and provides more than enough stored energy to get us through cloudy days, and the fact that it is designed to last more than ten years with a three year warranty means we will not need to think about replacing it for a very long time.

We use this battery with a fairly powerful trolling motor on our boat and it has delivered superb performance all season, because the high capacity means we can fish all day on a single charge and the steady discharge keeps the motor running smoothly without any sag, and the clean and maintenance free design makes it a far better option than the heavy lead-acid battery we used before.

I replaced my old lead-acid batteries with this single 12.8V 300Ah lithium unit and the difference is simply night and day, because I now have more usable capacity, less weight and none of the maintenance headaches, and the much higher cycle life means it will pay for itself many times over compared with replacing lead-acid batteries every couple of years.

We take this battery on all our weekend camping trips and it has never let us down, powering the fridge, the lights and our charging devices for the entire trip without even getting close to empty, and the fact that we can simply charge it from solar during the day and carry on using it at night makes camping far more comfortable than it ever was before.

We fitted this battery into our motorhome earlier this year and it has been completely dependable ever since, providing all the power we need for extended trips away from hook-ups, and the compact footprint despite the large capacity meant it fitted neatly into the existing battery bay without any major modifications, which made the installation very straightforward.

What impressed me most is how quickly this battery accepts a charge from my solar controller compared with the lead-acid battery it replaced, because the much higher charging efficiency means I capture far more of the available sunlight, and it also holds its charge very well when not in use, which is exactly what I need for my seasonal off-grid setup.

I spent a long time comparing batteries before buying and this one offered the best combination of capacity, weight and price by far, because you get a huge 300Ah of storage in a package that is lighter and smaller than the equivalent lead-acid setup, and with the ten year design life and zero maintenance the long term value is genuinely excellent.

Our aim was to use more of our own solar energy and this battery has helped us achieve that far better than we expected, because it stores a serious amount of power during the sunny hours and delivers it smoothly through the evening, and the ability to expand the system with additional units in parallel gives us a very clear path for the future.

We run a fair amount of equipment off this battery in our small off-grid cabin and it handles everything without breaking a sweat, because the 100A continuous current means even simultaneous use of several appliances is no problem at all, and after several months of daily cycling the performance has not changed one bit, which tells me the quality is genuinely there.

You can tell from the moment you unbox it that this is a well made product, because the casing is solid, the terminals are properly finished and everything feels premium, and the Easun BMS gives me full confidence that the battery is protected against over-charging, deep discharge and short circuits, so I never have to worry about it even when we are away from home for weeks.

The single biggest benefit of this battery is simply the sheer amount of energy it can hold, because we can now go for days without charging and still have power to spare, and that has removed almost all of the anxiety we used to have about running out of power on longer trips, which makes the whole experience of living with solar storage much more relaxed.

This battery has integrated perfectly with our solar panel system and the whole setup has been running smoothly for months, because the charging behaviour is intelligent and the state of charge stays accurate, and the low self-discharge means the energy we store in the daytime is still there waiting for us in the evening, which is exactly what you want from a storage battery.

We have been using this battery in our camper for the past three months and it has been completely dependable, providing quiet, clean and maintenance free power for everything we need, and the peace of mind that comes from knowing we have so much reserve capacity is honestly priceless when you are travelling in remote places.

The battery arrived quickly and well packed, and the documentation made installation straightforward even for someone like me who is not an electrician, and after a couple of months of use it has performed exactly as promised, and although it was not the cheapest option, the combination of capacity, build quality and the three year warranty makes it excellent value in my opinion.

The engineering cells are 314Ah / 4019.2Wh (12.8V × 314Ah). The "300Ah" tier name × 12.8V = ~3840Wh, the figure printed on marketing and runtime graphics. Both describe the same pack. Spec tables on this page use the conservative manual 314Ah / 4019.2Wh and the 3840Wh nameplate for run-time; we never conflate this 4kWh pack with the smaller 100Ah sibling.

The conservative manual ceiling is 1280W continuous (12.8V × 100A charge and discharge), with a 400A one-second pulse for startup inrush. Plan every steady load at or below 1280W. GSIKE's marketing graphics for this pack show a higher BMS rating and a larger appliance; treat 1280W as your planning number and confirm the true BMS rating with the merchant before wiring anything above it (see the specification note). Parallel batteries add current — a single 300Ah does not raise the 1280W ceiling.

Roughly, on the same 12V bus. One GSIKE 300Ah delivers ~3818–4019 usable Wh at ~95–100% depth of discharge, whereas a 12V 100Ah flooded lead-acid gives only ~504 usable Wh at ~42% DoD. So one GSIKE replaces about six 12V 100Ah lead-acid batteries wired IN PARALLEL on the 12V bus. Never wire them in series to make 24V — that is a different system.

Because energy (Wh) and power (W) are two different things. This 12V GSIKE family uses the same 100A BMS whether the pack holds 100Ah or 314Ah, so at 12.8V the continuous ceiling is 100A × 12.8V = 1280W on every single unit. The extra cells only lengthen run-time (4019.2Wh vs ~1.28kWh) — they do not raise the one-pack power ceiling. To pull more watts continuously, wire matched units in parallel (current adds while the voltage stays 12.8V) or build a higher-voltage series bank; until then, never plan a steady load above 1280W on a single 300Ah.

At the 3840Wh nameplate divided by the load: 100W 38.4h, 300W 12.8h, 500W 7.68h, 800W 4.8h and 1000W 3.84h. Keep every continuous load at or below the 1280W ceiling; at the full ceiling the bank lasts ~3.0–3.14h. When running through a separate 12V inverter, derate by about 90–95% efficiency and leave depth-of-discharge headroom.

The maximum configuration is 4P4S: four in parallel times four in series = 16 units, giving 51.2V and 1256Ah for 64.3kWh. When building a bank, use units that are identical in model and matched within about one month of production / charge history; do not mix new and heavily-used units, and keep the whole bank on the 14.4V charge profile with the 10V cut-off.

Both, for different jobs. The inside cells are engineering-rated 314Ah (12.8V × 314Ah = 4019.2Wh); GSIKE sells this in the conservative "300Ah" tier, whose nameplate is 12.8V × 300Ah ≈ 3840Wh — the figure on the marketing and runtime graphics. Use 314Ah / 4019.2Wh for spec comparisons and the 3840Wh nameplate to estimate run-time. The ~180Wh gap is tier rounding, not a second battery, and it does not change the 100A BMS, the 1280W ceiling or the 6000-cycle rating.

It weighs 26kg net (27kg gross) — genuinely heavy, so plan a two-person lift and use the integrated handles when tilting it into a motorhome locker or boat compartment. Bolt it down through the base with the M8 terminals using the supplied hardware, keep it upright, leave ventilation around the ABS case and run the thick 12V cables short. Because the charge window is 0°C to 50°C, mount it where the space stays above freezing in winter; do not charge below 0°C even though discharge works down to −20°C.

Not for a golf cart — this is a 12V leisure / deep-cycle pack, not a traction battery for the high continuous drive current of a golf-cart system. It is well suited to an electric trolling motor on a boat (several buyers report a full day on one charge), as well as campervans, motorhomes, off-grid cabins, home solar storage and camping.

The pack weighs 26kg net (27kg gross) — plan a two-person lift. The price is €369.99 EUR struck from €470.00 (21% off, Save €100.01), in stock and new. Shipping is free to 15 European countries (1–3 days handling plus 2–7 days transit), with 30-day returns by post. The warranty is 3 years against a ~10-year design life, so the covered period is shorter than the expected service life at light use.

Safety rules for an isolated installation: never work live, protect every branch against short circuit and sparks, protect the battery against overcharge and deep discharge, and do not exceed the continuous output limit. A pure sine wave protects sensitive electronics but does not replace correct cable and fuse sizing. If you are unsure of the wiring or battery profile, use a qualified installer; a wrong install endangers equipment and safety.

When designing an off-grid or hybrid system, start from real daily consumption: list every permanent and starting appliance, its rated power and run time, then build a daily energy budget in Wh. Only after that choose the inverter, PV array and battery; buying the equipment first and sizing the load later leads to undersizing or needlessly high cost. Homes, caravans, holiday cabins and workshops have different load profiles, so a generic recommendation for a fridge, pump or heat pump is always individual.

The MPPT charge controller is the heart of solar charging: it tracks the maximum-power point of the panels and adjusts voltage so the battery receives as much energy as possible. Compare not only the total controller current but also the panel-voltage range and the module wattage it accepts; an undersized MPPT does no damage but limits array harvest. Wire panels in series or parallel so the working voltage falls inside the controller range, respecting insulation and fuses on the PV side.

The battery provides the reserve for cloudy days and night operation. Its capacity is chosen from daily consumption and the desired autonomy days, respecting the depth of discharge of the chemistry. Lead-acid tolerates shallower depth and more frequent top-ups; LiFePO4 accepts deeper cycles. Regardless of chemistry, care for equal cell voltage, the correct charge profile and current sizing, because a mismatched profile shortens life more than the cycles themselves.

Cables and fuses are often underestimated but are a decisive part of a safe installation. At the battery's low voltage the current is high, so conductors must be short, thick and sized by current and length, keeping voltage drop and heating within normal limits. On every safety boundary (battery, panel, output) use a properly rated fuse and isolator switches; an undersized cable can overheat, and the fuse protects against short circuit and fire.

Connecting the inverter to the grid and generator has a precise procedure and switch order. Always isolate the input branches first, then connect battery, panel and AC circuit, and finally set the charge profile and parameters. Off-grid and backup mode require a clean output waveform and fast transfer time; sensitive electronics, computers and network gear need a stable wave without oscillation. Have all work checked by a qualified electrician if you do not hold the relevant competence.

Wi-Fi and monitoring let you track voltage, power, charge current and battery state directly on a phone or computer. The app shows daily gain, consumption and history, so you can spot overload or a failing cell before a fault. Daytime battery-free running with clear sun is practical, but overnight and continuous backup need the battery bank; monitoring helps distinguish array-only running from battery running.

Maintenance extends equipment life: check terminal torque, ventilation cleanliness and cooling regularly in a dry, airy room free of damp and dust. Watch charge voltage and any cell heating, and after a few years confirm battery condition and connection tightness. Avoid high humidity, dust or frost risk; respect the operating and storage temperatures stated in the manual.

When comparing models, match the same class: continuous kW, starting peak, MPPT current and range, acceptable PV wattage, battery input voltage, number of outputs and Wi-Fi connection. The listing name may not match true continuous power, so read the manual table and rating plate. A cheaper model with a smaller MPPT or no monitoring can behave worse under real load, so total value depends on the sum of parameters, not the ad slogan.

European availability and logistics affect delivery speed and return conditions. Confirm warehouse location, estimated lead time, return rules and spare-parts/support availability before buying. Prices in EUR may be shown without hidden fees, but the final price, duties and local taxes are always confirmed by the checkout. Warranty terms and the possibility of support matter more than a single monthly discount badge.

Final Verdict

Frequently asked questions

Sources and basis

1. GSIKE – 12.8V 300Ah spec sheet — https://gesike.com/products/gsike-128v300ah-product
2. LiTime – reference — https://www.litime.com
3. Renogy – reference — https://www.renogy.com
4. Battery University – LiFePO4 — https://batteryuniversity.com
5. US DOE – home storage — https://www.energy.gov/energysaver

Further guides and comparisons

Direct to model: GSIKE 12.8V 300Ah LiFePO4 battery page.

GSIKE 12.8V 300Ah at 369.99 EUR (instead of 470.00 EUR) – free delivery to 15 EU countries, 30-day returns, warranty.